臺灣手工釀造醬油知識建構--以新和春醬油漬物工廠為例

Abstract

因緣際會下，我接觸到位於彰化縣社頭鄉、歷經了百年傳承的新和春醬油漬物工廠，我認為張家三代在社頭的脈絡變遷裡埋藏著臺灣傳統手工醬油珍貴的文化多樣性。從聯合國教科文組織(UNESCO)、慢食運動以及食饗觀光趨勢的全球觀點，讓我理解保存手工釀造醬油知識的必要性，因此本研究目的是以新和春為研究個案，應用Nonaka (1994) 知識創建模式建構個案的手工釀造工藝知識。透過田野觀察和實地操作，我用文字與圖像建構出「新和春的工」、「新和春的藝」、並以Merleau-Ponty (1962)的基進反思(radical reflection) 概念化「新和春的身體化知識」。新和春的工大致包含--發酵前的選購黑豆、洗豆浸泡、高溫蒸煮及冷卻製麴；發酵中的披豆、翻麴、洗麴、醒麴、拌鹽入缸、日曝、開缸、加水濾汁；發酵後的熬煮攪拌、沉澱過濾、口味調配、裝瓶、高溫殺菌和貼標包裝。新和春的藝涵蓋百年來在社頭鄉的自然人文的變遷脈絡，以及醞釀出的活的飲食文化襲產。老闆張仕明先生的身體化知識可以從時空感、力道感和掌控感來理解。Shin Ho Chun was the case of this study which has handmade soy sauce through fermentation over a century at Shetou Village, Changhua County. Three generations of Chang’s family have built and operated this factory, and I believed that some cultural diversity of Taiwanese culinary lay hidden here. Inspired with the perspectives of UNESCO, Slow Food Movement, and gastronomy tourism, the study aimed to construct the knowledge and craftsmanship of soy sauce fermentation of Shin Ho Chun, applying the modes of knowledge creation (Nonaka, 1994). The field observation and participation generated a number of words and pictures to build up the craftsmanship and the art of Shin Ho Chun, as well as the embodied knowledge of Mr. Chang Shih Ming who is the third-generation head conceptualized through the radical reflection of Merleau-Ponty (1962). The craftsmanship of Shin Ho Chun’s soy sauce fermentation included eighteen steps which were choosing beans, washing and soaking beans, steaming, cooling and making koji, paving beans, overturning koji, washing koji, waking-up koji, mixing with salt and putting into earthen jars, exposing to the sun, opening jars, adding water and filtering bean juice, stirring and boiling, precipitating and purifying, seasoning, bottling, sterilizing, and packaging and labeling. The hundred-year nature and humanity context of Shetou Village not only cultivated Shin Ho Chun’s soy sauce with human’s warmth, but also made Shin Ho Chun’s factory a living heritage. The embodied knowledge of Mr. Chang Shih Ming was conceptualized within sense of time and space, sense of strength, and sense of control. More conclusion and reflection were discussed.