大稻埕飲食文化研究

Abstract

大稻埕臺北舊城區，曾經是日治時期臺灣人商業活動最熱絡的地區，其中飲食習慣文化隨著政權轉移、風俗文化而變遷，商業活動多而金錢交易熱絡，相對地飲食需求便大增，逐漸形成特殊的飲宴文化，飲食場域空間與料理提供知識分子文學能量，與文學發展有不可切割的關聯性。 本論文將以大稻埕區域為範圍，從清末時期以來大量閩南移民帶來的閩南飲食文化談起，論述日治時期酒樓飲宴場域提供臺灣政商官紳交流而產生的大量古典漢詩作品，內容多宴飲場面、詩社集會、文人藝妲唱酬之作。日治中期臺灣知識分子留中或留日，受到新思維、新文化影響，民族意識、民族自決的覺醒，商業經濟重鎮的大稻埕，更是臺灣新文化的發源地，此時江山樓經理人郭秋生成立「南音」提倡臺灣話文、蓬萊閣經理人陳水田，支持臺灣「風月報」刊行保留臺灣文化，大稻埕酒樓可說是臺灣文學演進的縮影。 戰爭期間，受日本飲食西化因素影響，臺北引進咖啡廳成為文化沙龍，結合臺灣料理的山水亭提供文人聚會並成立「啓文社」協助《臺灣文學》雜誌出版；成立厚生演劇會，演出張文環小說改寫而成的《閹雞》一劇，造成轟動。臺灣光復之後隨著國民軍政府來臺的大陸作家以懷鄉主題形成飲食文類之影響，大稻埕沒落舊城區的臺式古早味飲食成為臺籍作家書寫對象，用以懷想臺北舊城區興衰、社會風俗。本論文以時間為縱軸，飲食文化變遷為橫軸，綰合臺灣文學發展，探討飲食場域、料理與文化、文學發展的相互關聯。

Dadaocheng, an old Taipei city, used to be the most popular business area for Taiwanese during the period of Japanese rule. The dietary culture, in particular, became difference through the change of political regime and customs. The increased business activities also improved cash flow; in other words, the dietary needs steeply grew and the dietary habits gradually formed a special feast culture. The intellectuals were provided with some food for thought in the realm of dining places and the art of cuisine, which built an inseparable relationship with the development of literature. This thesis, based on the area of Dadaocheng, starts from the southern Fujian dietary culture brought by a large number of immigrants in the late Qing Dynasty and presents classical Chinese poetry written by bureaucrats, capitalists, celebrities and intellectuals in the high-class restaurants and banquet areas during the period Japanese rule. The content of those works features feasting scenes, poets’ gatherings, and ballads from geishas and literati. In the middle of the Japanese rule, Taiwanese intellectuals, who once studied abroad in China or Japan, were affected by new thinking and new culture as well as the awakening call of national consciousness and national self-determination. Dadaocheng, in the center of business and economy, became the birthplace of Taiwan’s new culture. At that time, the manager of Kang San Lau, Qiusheng Guo, established the "Southern Voice" to promote the Vernacular Taiwanese, and the manager of Penglai Pavilion, Shuitian Chen, supported the publication of Taiwan's "Fengyue" newspaper to preserve Taiwanese culture. It is no exaggerated to say that the restaurants in Dadaocheng can be seen as the evolution of Taiwanese literature in microcosm. During the wartime, Taipei was influenced by the westernization of the Japanese dietary and introduced coffee shops becoming cultural salons. Shanshuiting, combined with Taiwanese cuisine, provided a place for literati gatherings and set up a "Qiwen" club to arrange the publication of "Taiwan Literature" magazines; also, set up Kosei Theater Society and staged “Castrated Chicken” which was adapted from Wenhuan Zhang 's novels. The result of "Castrated Chicken" drama caused a sensation. After Taiwan Retrocession, writers who came to Taiwan with National Military Government influenced dietary literature with their nostalgic feelings. Taiwan traditional food, located in old towns in Dadaocheng, became the topics for Taiwanese writers. To experience the rise and fall of old Taipei city and social customs, this thesis takes time as the vertical axis and the change of dietary culture as the horizontal axis, integrates the development of Taiwanese literature, and explores the interrelationships between dietary fields, cuisine, and cultural and literary development.