日治時期臺灣高等女學校的制服

Abstract

在女子受高等教育尚未普及的日治時期，能夠穿著「高女制服」的學生即代表當時少數具備新知識、新教養的新女性，制服成為高等女學生最明顯的身分象徵。本論文主要目的在究明日治時期臺灣的高等女學校制服的變化，並找出高女制服之間的同質性或相異性，更進一步分析日本內地與臺灣本島女學生制服的關聯性，最後考察高女制服之意涵，以及對臺灣女子的象徵性及社會意義。 考慮各學校成立的緣由及時間，本文將日治時期成立的23所高女分成(1)1922年以前成立以日本人為主的高等女學校(2) 1922年學制變更以臺灣人為主的高等女學校(3) 1922年以後設立之初即共學的高等女學校(4)私立高等女學校等四類，分別說明各校制服變化的過程及特色。根據本文的研究結果發現：1922年以前設立以日本人為主的高等女學校，起初是穿著日式「和服搭配袴」的款式；而台灣人的學校則起初是傳統漢人服裝，後來變為「上著大襟衫、下著袴、或褶裙」，僅有臺灣人的獨特款式。1922年以後，各校制服皆開始洋服化，最後逐漸皆改為水手服樣式，而在領子、領帶處以不同數量的線條來代表學校。1939年因應戰爭形勢，臺灣總督府決議將高等女學校的制服統一為水手服。 1940年以後，基於軍事與勞務動員、躲避空襲等現實需要，女學生會穿著水手服上衣搭配方便活動的燈籠褲，由各校自行規定燈籠褲樣式。 日治時期台灣的高女制服，一方面受到日本內地高女制服的影響而變化，一方面亦有台灣本地的演變脈絡。本文釐清各校制服的樣式變化後，未來可做為博物館展示、影視戲劇的造型設計之重要參考依據。 During the Japanese Colonial Period when girls’ higher education wasn’t widespread enough, students who wore “Girls’ Middle School Uniforms” had represented the few “Shin Joset” with new knowledge and upbringing at that time. Uniforms then became the most obvious symbol of identity. The main purpose of this study is to research on the variation of Girls’ Middle School Uniforms during the Japanese Colonial Period. Find out the homogeneity and heterogeneity between them, and analyze the relationship between uniforms in local Japan and Island of Taiwan. Finally, study on the meaning of Girls’ Middle School Uniforms and their symbolic, social meanings for Taiwanese women. Consider the reason and period of every school’s foundation, this study divided 23 Girls’ Middle Schools during the Japanese Colonial Period into 4 categories: mainly consisting of Japanese students which were founded before 1922, mainly consisting of Taiwanese students when the educational rule were changed in 1922, consisting of equally-educated students once the school had been founded after 1922, and private girls’ middle schools. The writer will describe uniforms’ variation processes and features of each schools respectively. According to the research conclusion, students in girls’ middle schools mainly consisting of Japanese before 1922 were wearing Japanese style of “Kimono with Hakama” at first. On the other hand, Taiwanese schools’ uniforms had changed from the traditional Hans’ costumes to “Upper Hakka Loose Dress, lower Hakama or pleated skirt ”, which was an unique style of Taiwanese students. After 1922, all uniforms started to be in western-style, eventually turning into the style of sailor suits. Different number of lines on the collar and tie represented the student’s own school. Due to the war situation in 1939, Government-General of Taiwan decided to unify Girls’ Middle School Uniforms into sailor suits. After 1940, based on military reasons, labor mobilization, air raid avoidance and other realistic needs, girl students would wear sailor suits top with monpe which were easy for them to move around. Each school can independently regulate their own style of monpe. Girls’ Middle School Uniforms during the Japanese Colonial Period not only changed by the influence of those in local Japan, but also had their own evolution contexts in Island of Taiwan. This study clarifies the variations of uniforms’ styles, and hopefully can be used as an important accordance to the museum’s exhibitions and drama’s modeling designs.