迪奧男裝高級訂製系列的藝術品牌聯名與其品牌管理:提升文化權威的過程
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2025
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當代奢侈品牌聯名策略已不僅止於商品合作或市場曝光,亦日益展現其在文化語境與制度參與中的角色重塑功能。特別是在高級訂製制度(haute couture)這一極具象徵意涵的文化場域中,品牌若欲積累象徵資本與文化正當性,需透過更複雜的文化治理操作。本研究以 Dior 男裝系列(Dior Men)在 Kim Jones 擔任藝術總監期間的藝術品牌聯名策略為研究對象,試圖探討其如何在既有市場導向策略的基礎上,發展出以文化治理為核心的品牌管理模式。本研究採用質性研究方法,透過文獻分析與專家訪談,建構一套涵蓋策展式品牌治理(Curatorial Brand Management)、文化資本與象徵權力(Bourdieu, 1984, 1991)、文化延伸性(Schroeder, 2005)與文化品牌建構(Holt, 2004)等理論觀點之分析架構。研究關注 Dior Men 如何藉由與當代藝術家(如 KAWS、Daniel Arsham、Peter Doig)合作,轉化藝術語言為品牌語彙,並透過工藝轉譯與秀場策展,建構品牌於制度邊緣的文化話語權。研究發現,Dior Men 的藝術聯名策略不僅強化其品牌視覺識別與年輕化市場拓展,更透過與高文化資本的創作者合作,形構出一套嶄新的象徵秩序與文化權威路徑。此操作形式延伸傳統品牌聯名理論對市場擴張與品牌延伸的解釋框架,顯示奢侈品牌在制度性文化場域中所需面對的話語競爭與象徵鬥爭。本研究並非否定既有聯名策略的商業價值,反而強調其在當代表現中的多元延伸性,並進一步指出,當奢侈品牌置身於高級訂製等文化制度中時,唯有融合藝術策展、文化參與與象徵資本的跨界策略,方能實現品牌文化權威的提升。本研究期望補充傳統聯名理論的文化盲點,並提供實務與學術並重的分析視角,作為未來品牌文化治理的策略參照。關鍵詞:迪奧男裝、藝術品牌聯名、奢侈品管理、文化治理、象徵資本、策展式品牌管理
In contemporary luxury branding, co-branding strategies have evolved beyond product innovation and marketing exposure to encompass cultural participation and institutional engagement. Within the symbolic framework of haute couture, brands seeking to accumulate symbolic capital and cultural legitimacy must employ more complex cultural governance mechanisms. This study focuses on the artistic co-branding strategy of Dior Men under the creative direction of Kim Jones, examining how the brand constructs a cultural governance model rooted in the haute couture system.Employing qualitative research methods, including literature analysis and expert interviews, the study develops an analytical framework integrating curatorial brand management (Preece& Kerrigan, 2015), Bourdieu’s theories of cultural and symbolic capital (1984, 1991), cultural stretchability (Schroeder, 2005), and cultural brand construction (Holt, 2004). The research investigates how Dior Men transforms artistic language into brand vocabulary through collaborations with high-cultural capital artists such as KAWS, Daniel Arsham, and Peter Doig, and how it curates fashion shows and translates haute couture craftsmanship to construct symbolic authority at the institutional margins. Findings suggest that Dior Men’s artistic collaborations not only strengthen its visual identity and market relevance but also form a new symbolic order through aesthetic narratives and cultural discourse. This form of brand management extends beyond conventional co-branding theories centered on market expansion and brand extension, revealing the competitive cultural dynamics faced by luxury brands in highly institutionalized fields such as haute couture. Rather than denying the commercialvalue of traditional co-branding, this study acknowledges it as a foundational layer upon which culturally oriented strategies can evolve. It highlights how luxury brands can enhance their cultural authority by integrating curatorial practices, symbolic positioning, and institutional engagement. This research contributes a culturally enriched perspective to co-branding theory and offers a strategic reference for future brand governance in the luxury industry.Keywords: Dior Men, artistic co-branding, luxury management, cultural governance, symbolic capital, curatorial brand management
In contemporary luxury branding, co-branding strategies have evolved beyond product innovation and marketing exposure to encompass cultural participation and institutional engagement. Within the symbolic framework of haute couture, brands seeking to accumulate symbolic capital and cultural legitimacy must employ more complex cultural governance mechanisms. This study focuses on the artistic co-branding strategy of Dior Men under the creative direction of Kim Jones, examining how the brand constructs a cultural governance model rooted in the haute couture system.Employing qualitative research methods, including literature analysis and expert interviews, the study develops an analytical framework integrating curatorial brand management (Preece& Kerrigan, 2015), Bourdieu’s theories of cultural and symbolic capital (1984, 1991), cultural stretchability (Schroeder, 2005), and cultural brand construction (Holt, 2004). The research investigates how Dior Men transforms artistic language into brand vocabulary through collaborations with high-cultural capital artists such as KAWS, Daniel Arsham, and Peter Doig, and how it curates fashion shows and translates haute couture craftsmanship to construct symbolic authority at the institutional margins. Findings suggest that Dior Men’s artistic collaborations not only strengthen its visual identity and market relevance but also form a new symbolic order through aesthetic narratives and cultural discourse. This form of brand management extends beyond conventional co-branding theories centered on market expansion and brand extension, revealing the competitive cultural dynamics faced by luxury brands in highly institutionalized fields such as haute couture. Rather than denying the commercialvalue of traditional co-branding, this study acknowledges it as a foundational layer upon which culturally oriented strategies can evolve. It highlights how luxury brands can enhance their cultural authority by integrating curatorial practices, symbolic positioning, and institutional engagement. This research contributes a culturally enriched perspective to co-branding theory and offers a strategic reference for future brand governance in the luxury industry.Keywords: Dior Men, artistic co-branding, luxury management, cultural governance, symbolic capital, curatorial brand management
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迪奧男裝, 藝術品牌聯名, 奢侈品管理, 文化治理, 策展式品牌管理, 象徵資本, Dior Men, Artistic Co-branding, Luxury Management, Cultural Governance, Symbolic Capital, Curatorial Brand Managment