移民點心臺灣化：戰後臺北的福州糕點族裔經濟發展

Abstract

臺灣各處都有福州人的活動紀錄，許多臺灣人熟知的飲食也宣稱有著福州根源，但始終缺少脈絡可循。本文以二戰後的「福州」試圖開啟討論的可能性：首先梳理在臺灣福州人的歷史脈絡、說明福州－臺灣的人物流動關係，再透過二戰後在臺北興起的福州移民糕點業，實際討論福州糕點70餘年間的本土化過程。本文論述一批戰後福州移民，因延續戰前移民的習慣而組成糕點族裔經濟，生活環境接近本土市街，是標準的「三把刀」以及「非典型的外省人」群體。1960年代左右，當面臨經濟困境時，福州糕點業運用勞保工會制度維護群體利益，進一步強化了族裔經濟。但從1980年代開始，福州糕點業遭遇人力老化問題而衰退，於是在本土化政策下進行轉型，並逐漸被認為是「台灣美食」的一員。整體而言，這段族裔經濟形成、強化、消解的過程，說明移民脈絡影響了族裔經濟的發展方向；而在移民店家謀生優先的選擇下，本就模糊的移民食物、人群的邊界也持續崩解，最終本土化論述取代了道地論述的位置，使移民、飲食成為了台灣。Records of Fuchou people's activities can be found all over Taiwan, and many familiar Taiwanese dishes also claim Fuchou origins, but there has always been a lack of context to follow. This article attempts to open up the possibility of discussion with "Fuchou" after World War II: first, it traces the historical context of Fuchou people in Taiwan and explains the relationship between the flow of people between Fuchou and Taiwan. Then, through the Fuchou immigrant pastry business that emerged in Taipei after WWII, it discusses the localization process of Fuchou pastries over the past 70 years.The article argues that a group of post-war Fuchou immigrants, by continuing the habits of pre-war immigrants, formed an ethnic pastry business, lived in close proximity to local streets, and were standard"three-bladed" and "atypical mainlanders". Around the 1960s, when facing economic difficulties, the Fuchou pastry business used the labor insurance and union system to protect the interests of the group, further strengthening the ethnic economy. But starting in the 1980s, the Fuchou pastry business declined due to an aging workforce, and underwent a transformation under the localization policy, gradually being recognized as part of "Taiwanese cuisine". Overall, this process of the formation, strengthening, and dissolution of the ethnic economy shows that the context of immigration influenced the development direction of the ethnic economy; and under the choices of immigrant shopkeepers prioritizing survival, the already blurred boundaries of immigrant food and people also continued to disintegrate. Eventually, the discourse of localization replaced the discourse of authenticity, making immigrants and food an integral part of Taiwan.