百年來臺灣北部濱海客家飲食在地發展探究—以桃園觀音廖氏家族為例

Abstract

自1990年以來，研究臺灣客家飲食的論文和專書逐年增加，但其研究主題多為單一面向，例如：某地或某項特色菜餚、客家米食、客家醃漬菜、母親的家常菜；或者偏重山區客家飲食探究；或者多聚焦於現階段客家飲食發展趨勢的探討，忽略客家飲食文化的歷史發展背景。換言之，目前臺灣客家飲食的研究，多分散在各個獨立的主題，未有特定區域或家族的統整論述。本論文嘗試藉由觀音廖氏家族的飲食經驗，探討北部濱海客家飲食在地發展的歷史。在時間歷程與內涵上，從日治到1980年代約百年時間，探討廖氏家族從移民社會進入土著化社會，反映在歲時節日與日常生活飲食與地緣的聯繫。歲時節日飲食包括祭祖祀神的三牲、粄食與宴客；日常生活飲食則包含食物的收藏、保存和消費，表現在醬料和醃漬菜的製作、茶酒飲文化、家常菜與宴客菜各個面向。廖氏家族在日常三餐飲食傾向重鹹少油，其消費則儘量節儉樸素，蔬菜類多取材於家庭菜圃自給自足的各式蔬菜、醃漬菜；肉類則多為家庭養殖的雞、鴨、鵝和少數養殖和多數購買的豬肉、牛肉；魚肉來源則有埤塘養殖的淡水魚和野生海魚。廖氏家族在歲時節日的祭祀飲食與宴客菜餚則為豐盛的大魚大肉，相對於平日三餐的克勤克儉，在辦桌宴客時，卻慷慨奢華、熱情好客。廖氏家族曾新創一道稱為「塘背炒」（又稱小炒）的宴客菜，其烹製方法、食材，與現今所見的客家小炒略有差異，但「塘背炒」確實成為觀音地區家喻戶曉的辦桌菜餚。總之，觀音、湖口一帶濱海客家飲食的在地發展，與臺灣北部山居客家飲食，存在不少差異性，本論文期盼能在已知桃竹苗山居客家飲食的基礎上，再擴及濱海客家飲食的認識，俾利於多方面了解北部客家飲食文化的面向，以及有助於學術界更深入探究臺灣客家飲食文化的全貌。關鍵詞：客家飲食、濱海客家、塘背炒、客家小炒、廖氏家族Abstract

Since 1990, the number of papers and monographs on Taiwanese Hakka cuisine has increased year by year, but some of their research topics tend to be one-sided, e.g., featured dishes of a particular place or item, Hakka rice foods, Hakka pickles, mother’s homemade dishes, others on the bias toward the exploration of Hakka cuisine in mountainous areas, and still others focusing more on development trend and phenomenon of Hakka cuisine at this stage, which overshadow the background of thehistorical development. Specifically, the current research on Hakka cuisine in Taiwan is mostly scattered on various independent topics, which fails to provide a A comprehensive multifaceted discussion.This research attempts to look into the history of the local development of Hakka cuisine in Taiwan’s northern coastal area through the culinary experiences of the Liao family in Guanyin Taoyuan. As regards time course and connotation, about 100 years from the Japanese rule to the 1980s, the Liao family's transition from an immigrant society to an indigenous one is explored in terms of the connection among yearly festivals, daily diets and geographical ties. Foods served on yearly festivals include three animal sacrificial offerings for ancestor worship, Hakka Ban food (steamed rice cakes) and banquet cuisine; the daily life diets of Hakka, including the collection, preservation and consumption of food, are expressed in the production of sauce and pickles, the culture of drinking wine and tea,and the food culture of home cooking and banquet cuisine.The three daily meals of the Liao family feature more salty and less oily tastes and consume in a frugal and simple manner, mainly using self-sufficient varieties of vegetables harvested from the home garden with the surplus made into pickles; the meat for home consumption is largely from home-raised poultry, and a small amount of farmed and mostly purchased pork and beef; the sources of fish are pond-raised freshwater fish and wild sea fish. In contrast to the meagre meals on a daily basis, the Liao family's ritual cuisines and banquet dishes on yearly festivals are abundant with meat-based dishes to show their devotion to gods and hospitality to guests. The Liao family once created a new banquet dish known as "Tangback Stir-Fry", which became a household name in the Guanyin area. Generally speaking, differences do exist between the local development of coastal Hakka cuisine in the Guanyin and Hukou areas, and the mountain-dwelling Hakka cuisine in northern Taiwan. It is hoped that this paper will help expand the acquired knowledge of the Hakka cuisine in the coastal area on the basis of the established Hakka cuisine in the mountainous areas of Taoyuan, Hsinchu, and Miaoli, so as to facilitate the understanding of the Hakka culinary culture in the north and to help the academic community to further investigate the Hakka cuisine in Taiwan.Keywords: Hakka Cuisine, Hakkas in Coastal Areas, Tangback Stir-Fry, Hakka Stir-Fry, the Liao Family