藥食本源：客家飲食中的醬料與草藥

Abstract

本論文以探討客家飲食其族群（ethnic）飲食風貌之文化特性，自族群歷史、淵源、遷移、移動後，在地化發展過程的臺灣客家飲食味，其中菜餚中還有醫藥養生與飲食平衡的價值觀、以及發酵醬品、醃漬物的食用，在食物和飲食風土之間，呈現出階層與生活史的堆砌更迭。臺灣飲食文化與客家族群的淵遠流長，在消費與謀生技藝其經濟運作、生活方式與日常生活史三者相互影響的庶民文化，傳統族裔性的醬漬發酵、醃漬與米食等仍在今日存在於日常生活消費的一環，但卻隱身於市場、私人網絡化商品結構之中，等候有緣人想念該味道時購買品嘗；小眾生產者隨著年齡增長與銷售範圍的受限，傳統發酵醬料黃豆醬逐漸凋零，本文以黃豆醬/豆米醬的身世，以及客家飲食中的草藥和飲食法作為關注焦點，比對中國地區和臺灣地區的田野經驗與研究資料，希望對於客家飲食脈絡在臺灣飲食的文化場域和空間觀持續生產與轉變的發展和調整上，作出臺灣客家飲食史的紀錄。本文由調查客家的實際經驗為始，利用參與觀察（ Participant observation ）和採用文獻材料的內容分析法（Content Analysis）做為主要研究分析方法，針對客家族群在地飲食意識的納入和調整，利用生活資源觸手可及的食材，轉化成符合其價值觀的飲食熱涼屬性平衡的飲食法，透過食補成為具有族群性質的醫食、藥食，以及季節尚未求保存和變化的發酵食品，以調整日常勞動下的身體感，希望透過文獻與田野與訪談資料，作為文獻上更為完整的延伸與回顧，為臺灣客家飲食脈絡更臻完善的發展。

This paper explores the cultural characteristics of Hakka cuisine, focusing on the ethnic dietary customs. It examines the development of Hakka cuisine in Taiwan, including its historical background, migration, localization, and the incorporation of medicinal values and dietary balance into dishes. The consumption of fermented sauces and pickled foods reflects a layered history within the context of food and culinary culture.The culinary culture in Taiwan and the Hakka ethnic group has a long and intertwined history. Traditional practices such as fermentation, pickling, and rice consumption continue to be part of everyday life, albeit often hidden within markets or private networks, waiting for those who seek to experience their flavors. With aging producers and limited sales, traditional fermented soybean paste, known as yellow bean paste, is gradually declining. This paper focuses on the origin of Hakka Soybean Paste(mi24 ziong11), along with the use of herbs and dietary practices in Hakka cuisine. It compares field experience and research data in China and Taiwan, aiming to document the history of Hakka cuisine in Taiwan and its ongoing development and adjustment in the cultural landscape of Taiwanese food.The research is based on practical experiences and utilizes content analysis as the primary research method, combining participant observation and literature analysis. It examines how the Hakka community adapts and integrates local dietary consciousness, transforming accessible ingredients into dietary practices that align with their values, emphasizing the balance of hot and cool properties in food. Through dietary supplements, traditional Hakka cuisine becomes a form of ethnic medicine, adjusting to the physical demands of daily labor. This study aims to provide a comprehensive review and extension of existing literature through fieldwork and interviews, contributing to the further development of Hakka cuisine in Taiwan.