找尋所在‧逃避角落？──論溫師康個性咖啡館

Abstract

咖啡原為舶來品，如今卻逐漸攻佔台灣城市的大街小巷。1990年代跨國企業星巴克來台，於台北迅速展店，帶來消費符號與品味空間的想像；然而雖面對跨國企業競爭，台北街頭的「個性咖啡館」依舊如雨後春筍般湧出，藏身在城市的幽靜巷弄間。喝杯咖啡，或許已成為現代城市人的休閒方式之一；然而出現在個性咖啡館的消費族群，是否單純僅以「喝杯咖啡」作為目的？這些在城市中出現的咖啡館空間，對於現代人的生活來說，扮演著何種角色？ 回顧前人研究，多半藉由量化的問卷調查做為研究取徑，並以符號消費作為詮釋。本研究試圖以人本主義地理學的角度切入，強調人的主體能動性，選擇以個性咖啡館較多且富人文歷史意涵的台北「溫師康」作為研究區，透過流連此地咖啡館的人群做為訪談對象，了解其到咖啡館消費的行為動機及空間感受。此外，個性咖啡館有別於連鎖咖啡館之處在於店主試圖營造出自我特色，而FB粉絲團現今逐漸成為論述與行銷的管道，故本研究以個性咖啡館在FB粉絲團所傳遞的訊息做為分析對象，呈現店主所營造的咖啡館空間。再者，為避免現象學對於「place」討論上的限制，亦援引相關統計資料輔以說明社會背景，並以文獻資料梳理出咖啡文化的脈絡。 本研究發現，都市中的個性咖啡館具有家/辦公室、私人/公共的模糊特性，且因其店主所營造的不同空間特色而成為吸引某些人停駐的角落。現代的都市生活充滿著各式流動，無論是有形或抽象，都讓人在快速的節奏之中渴望停歇；而城市中的個性咖啡館因其物理環境與文化想像所營造的緩慢感，也成為都市人逃避流動生活的一個重要角落。Café culture derives from the Western countries; however, today in Taiwan, it has already become a part of leisure life for many people. Since the 1990s, Starbucks coffee entered Taiwan’s market, a lot of coffee chain stores have been established. Interestingly, although there are so many chain stores in Taipei, the personalized café are still thriving. Identifying why people go to coffee shops is the main target for many reaserchers, and there is a great deal of literature on purchasing behavior and marketing. The current research mainly focuses on chain stores, marketing and sign consumption as the principal, mostly taking the quantitative approach, rarely on the discussions of the personalized café’s space and the qualitative data to explain the experience. Therefore, it is imperative to pose an alternative methodology o talk about the meaning of the personalized café’s space.

Taking “Wen-Shi-Kang” in Taipei as my major research area, with a qualitative approach like interview and Facebook’s text analyses, this paper will argue that the humanistic geography’s concepts on “place” and “escapism” developed by Yi-Fu Tuan can provide a framework for explaining the meaning of personalized café in the city.

From this analysis, the personalized café in the city plays an obscure role between home and office / private and public. In modern city, there are diverse flows in our life, and the leisurely time constructed by physical space and culture image in personalized café can provide a corner for escape.