從 terroir 觀點看臺灣精品咖啡的品質建構－以大阿里山區為例

Abstract

近年來，不但臺灣咖啡的進口量漸增，生產量亦逐漸上升。有別於國際上咖啡生產與消費往往位於不同國家的情形，臺灣身兼咖啡生產與消費之地，隨著消費市場引入「精品咖啡」的國際概念，透過評鑑賽事、咖啡業者等，臺灣的咖啡產區開始發生變化。本研究透過研究生產地與消費地共舞的台灣阿里山咖啡為例，首先呈現國際的外來精品咖啡評鑑規準的融入，展現臺灣咖啡符號與物性的轉變，接續說明「阿里山咖啡」形塑的產區認同，不只為在地農民自身的認同，亦能為買家／消費者所接受，共構精品咖啡以「taste」作為品質判斷的產品，近一步形成阿里山精品咖啡terroir所建構的市場價值，並在面對國際時亦能開創市場的利基。此研究發現可作為國際上負面「不公」、「剝削」等咖啡生產國發展路徑的參考之一。

In recent years, not only has the import of coffee to Taiwan increased, but also the production of Taiwanese coffee. Generally, coffee production and consumption take place in different countries. However, Taiwan is the land for both. With the introduction of the international concept,” specialty coffee”, a new evaluation system and knowledge has emerged in Taiwanese coffee market. In response to this new concept, Taiwan’s coffee-growing regions has changed. As an example, Taiwan’s Alishan coffee is examined in this study. Alishan coffee illustrates the interaction between the production and consumption areas. Because international standards for evaluating foreign specialty coffee integrated into Taiwanese coffee market, the symbols and physical properties of Taiwanese coffee has changed. Moreover, the study indicates that local farmers are not the only ones who contribute to the identification of Alishan coffee, but the buyers/consumers as well. Coffee farmers and consumers jointly develop a product whose quality is determined by its” taste”. As a result, Alishan’s specialty coffee terroir generates the market value and creates a market niche in the international market. The findings of the study can serve as a reference for developing coffee production, especially in countries where coffee production is criticized for"injustice" and "exploitation".