當代卑南族服飾文飾美學意義及其創新運用之研究

Abstract

近百年來，臺灣歷史發展歷經外來殖民政權統治，長期殖民文化治理下，原住民族工藝與藝術相形邊緣而未受重視，使得部落傳統工藝文化出現嚴重斷層。原住民族服飾具有傳統工藝技法與族群文化意涵，傳統服飾文飾涵藏的是整體族群如何觀看與詮釋自己的文化，文飾是一種文化符號，是更深一層的指出其脫離裝飾表現功能，成為具文字語言意義的敘述表現，是一種深入瞭解族群文化的方式。從服飾文飾發展過程中，我們發現，從文飾的母題發展到視覺表現，展現了族群視覺判斷與心理特質。因此，本論文的題目為「當代卑南族服飾文飾美學意義及其創新運用之研究」，針對卑南族祭典儀式所穿著的服飾，探討卑南族服飾文飾的美學意義與創新運用，以文飾的文化意涵為基礎，延伸發展出文飾創新的可能。本研究分為四個重點進行討論：第一，卑南族服飾文飾的圖文系統；第二，卑南族文飾美學形式分析；第三，卑南族文飾美學內容分析；第四，文飾創新運用的理論架構。服飾文飾圖文系統是將現有文飾做基本整理，文飾美學的形式分析以李格爾（Alois Riegl）與羅傑•弗萊（Roger Fry）的學理觀點做裝飾藝術與視覺形式討論，文飾美學的內容分析是以羅蘭•巴特（Roland Barthes）符號學系統與安海姆（Rudolf Arnheim）藝術與視知覺觀點做討論，以美學意義做為瞭解族群文化的基礎，鏈結文飾設計轉化與創新運用，讓文化保存與存續成為可能。當代卑南族服飾文飾的美學意義與創新運用，目的在於深度的瞭解一個族群文化，另一個主要目的在於，從厚實的文化基礎脈絡中建構文飾創新運用理論，本論文提出的設計模式，旨在提供文創產品設計時的參考依據。本論文試圖藉著這個研究，瞭解卑南族製做服飾文飾的視覺表現與色彩使用，探討文飾與工藝技法的文化意涵，進而發掘來自於人藝術內驅力的裝飾欲望，以及對於整體空間結構與平衡結構的審美心理。

Over the past century, amid colonial rule, indigenous craftsmanship and artistic expressions endured on the margins, lacking due recognition. This oversight led to a profound fracture in the cultural continuum of tribal crafts. Indigenous textile not only encompasses traditional techniques but also embodies the cultural significance of distinct ethnic groups. The intricate patterns of traditional garments mirror how the community interprets its culture, evolving into symbols and narrative expressions with linguistic implications—a profound means of exploring cultural essence.In the developmental process of textile patterns, we observe that the transition from thematic elements of adornment to visual representation highlights ethnic visual discernment and psychological traits. Therefore, the title of this thesis is “A Study of The Aesthetic Significance and Innovative Application of Contemporary Pinuyumayan Textile Pattern. ˮ It explores adornments during Pinuyumayan tribal rituals. It delves into four key discussions: the pattern system, aesthetic forms, content, and the theoretical framework for innovation. Drawing from Alois Riegl and Roger Fry's perspectives on visual forms and Roland Barthes' semiotic framework, and Rudolf Arnheim's views on art, the study uses aesthetic significance to understand ethnic culture and connect pattern design to cultural preservation. The primary aim is to gain a profound understanding of the culture within a specific ethnic group, construct a theoretical framework for innovative utilization based on cultural richness, and serve as a reference for cultural and creative design. The paper explores the visual representation of patterns, color utilization, and cultural implications. It seeks to unveil the innate desire for adornment and the aesthetic psychology related to overall spatial and structural balance.