光層概念應用於晚禮服之設計研究

Abstract

本研究利用「光層概念」對應晚禮服之造型為研究方向，是為了能應用在近年來很創新的光纖布料來設計晚禮服。根據頂級住宅照明專家Randall Whitehead的說法，“沒有一個燈具可以為您提供正確照亮房間所需的一切。”適當的光線分層能製造具有設計靈活性和功能性的生活空間。因此室內設計中將照明光層（Layers of Lighting）分為五大類如任務、環境、重點、裝飾及聲明照明等，其目的為強化營造室內空間的各種氛圍。透過室內設計之「光層概念」應用於晚禮服設計中，對應之造型或整體之樣貌進行實驗分類，實驗中挑選時尚界成立近60年之三大世界知名品牌（Chanel、Dior、Valentino），蒐集近三年之巴黎高級訂製禮服共352款，邀請三位資深服裝設計打版師，透過文獻分析整理將352款晚禮服以對應「光層概念」方式加以分類，經過檔案建檔分析，藉此了解「光層概念」對應到晚禮服造型之設計重點，並將結果歸納整理後應用於晚禮服創作。本研究創作展出三套晚禮服，夢幻晚禮服以任務照明、舞會晚禮服以環境照明、晚宴晚禮服以重點照明設計為重點設計，三套晚禮服皆於各光層設計部位用光纖布料搭配LED燈作為發光媒介，如同室內設計光層營造室內空間之氛圍，此次創作有別於以往之晚禮服設計，更增添晚禮服立體多樣的華麗變化，呈現不一樣之視覺美學。光纖織物亦可作為安全服飾、各類服飾、鞋業、傢飾業、寵物衣以及舞台佈置…等應用，期盼在未來的市場，光纖織物能更為廣泛運用。By employing the concept of “layers of lighting” in garment designs, this research seeks to promote the use of POF (polymeric optical fibre) fabric, a new innovation in recent years, in the production of evening dresses. The internationally known lighting designer, Randall Whitehead, once said, “There is no single light fixture that gives you everything you need to illuminate a room properly.” To create a flexible and functional living space, using a variety of light sources to achieve light layering is essential. There are five main types of light layering in interior design, including task lighting, ambient lighting, accent lighting, decorative lighting, and statement lighting. Each of them is adopted to create different moods in a space to suit different occasions. Adapting “layers of lighting” for evening dress design, this research selected 352 haute couture garments that three prestigious international fashion brands—Chanel, Dior, and Valentino—presented over the past three years, for experiment. Next, three senior apparel patternmakers were invited to take part in the project. They categorized and then filed the 352 pieces of clothing based on the garments’ “layers of lighting.” Their efforts considerably aided our understanding of how to apply the light layering concept to the design of evening dresses. The research yielded three evening dresses that adopted task lighting, ambient lighting, and statement lighting, respectively. LED lights were installed on the different lighting layers of these POF-fabric dresses, creating a varied and dynamic mood in the dress similar to that created for an interior space. The creation of the three garments signified a new attempt to add variations to evening dress designs and provide diverse visual aesthetics. Another result of this research was the exploration of the use of POF fabric materials in safety apparel, shoes, home accessories, pet clothes, and stage arrangement. It is anticipated that this new fabric material will be more extensively used in the future.