江湖一點訣：坪林包種茶的知識流動與金瓜寮地方形構

Abstract

包種茶是臺灣茶業產製歷史最悠久的茶類，主要產茶地分布在臺灣北部。在臺灣北部茶區之中，以新北市坪林區的製茶技術最受到肯定，茶葉品質也最穩定，自清代至今積累百年的生產制度傳統成為坪林最深厚的底蘊。而坪林之中又以粗窟里金瓜寮表現最為出色，十幾戶做茶人家就有五位以上的優良茶比賽特等獎得主與全國製茶冠軍。這個得獎的地理集中現象成為本文發問起點，意欲瞭解金瓜寮是否反映了某種程度的茶業知識流動與聚集，再探究產業和社會之間的動態過程如何形構地方。 本文以行動者網絡理論視角處理坪林茶區的經濟與社會互動關係，經由田野訪談、觀察、文獻取得資料進行分析。研究結果簡要地回顧坪林包種茶業的生產歷史而聚焦在優良茶比賽，勾勒此間品質、知識、權力關係的交織。研究發現文山包種茶經過地方社會加工，產生帶有坪林地方特色的品質論述宣稱，並且藉由茶葉比賽制度支撐的行動者網絡規訓了坪林茶業產銷體系。透過網絡上行動者的翻譯，品質被認識為一組涵蓋茶園環境、茶樹種植、製茶手法、品鑑定價的茶業知識體系，這些茶業知識揉雜著符碼化知識、默識知識、身體化的知識之特質，依其特性以多樣化的方向與管道在茶業生產者之間流動，形塑出坪林包種茶鄉的樣貌。Pouchong Tea, mainly distributed in northern Taiwan, has the longest history in tea production industry in Taiwan. Among the tea producing zones in Northern Taiwan, the most recognized tea producing skills are found in Pinglin District, New Taipei City, while the quality is also the most stable. Since Qing dynasty, the century-old tradition of production system has become the richest foundation of Pinglin. Among the villages, Jingualiao, Cuku Village performs the best: over five out of a dozen tea farmers are outstanding-award winners in superior tea competitions and national tea production champions. This paper was initiated by such geographic concentration of award-winning phenomenon and intended to probe whether Jingualiao somewhat reflects the flow and clustering of tea production knowledge and further investigate how the dynamic process between industries and society structure the place making. This paper applied the actor-network theory to examine the interaction of economy and society in Pinglin tea producing zone. The data were collected and analyzed through field interviews, observation and literature. The research results briefly reviewed the production history of Pouchong Tea in Pinglin, focusing on tea competitions, and outlined the interwoven relations between quality, knowledge and power. The study found that Wen Shan Pouchong Tea, through the processing of local society, was marked with local features of Pinglin. And the actor-network supported by the tea competition system further disciplined the production and marketing system of Pinglin tea industry. Through the translation of actors on the network, quality is defined as a knowledge system covering tea plantation conditions, tea planting, tea producing techniques, and tasting and appraisal. Such knowledge about tea industry is characterized by codified, tacit and embodied knowledge which flows between tea producers in diversified directions and channels and sketches the place making of Pinglin Pouchong Tea village.