傳統壽司店的現代之路與成功之道

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2019

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壽司是最具代表性的日本料理,隨著時代演進,在江戶末期發展出在醋飯上放上生魚肉的江戶前壽司,經過的壽司師傅的改善已成為日本料理的美學代表。壽司師傅在客戶面前嶄示他們對魚的刀工與手藝,也展現他們職人的敬業精神,經過精心的搭配後讓餐飲成為一項美學饗宴。雖然價位很高卻也引來消費者趨之若鶩,成為一項極具特色的料理。 隨著時間推移,一些特定的魚類受到過分捕撈導致漁業枯竭或受到海洋污染的影響取得日漸困難;另一方面,長時間訓練與精準的要求也造成年輕壽司師傅的養成不易。究竟這項傳統美食與技藝是否也需要與時俱進,做些改變才能符合現代經營管理要求與客戶的想法呢? 本研究探訪五位在台經營壽司餐廳的師傅期望探究這個議題。 經過訪談與分析了解現時代的客戶仍然很在意師傅能掌握江戶握壽司的精神,將心思與精神貫注於其中,讓客戶能夠體會這幾百年來日本文化所創造的食物。壽司師傅會兢兢業業地挑選食材、注重刀工、根據客戶需求調整上菜的順序、配合客戶喜好做出他們想要的壽司。至於漁業日益枯竭及遠端運送造成鮮度降低的影響,許多師傅都主張可以適度地採用養殖漁業或當地的食材取代。此外料理、裝潢的方式創新,貼近客戶與他們互動都是能掌握客戶的方法。每家店應該儘可能創造自己特殊的風格,做出市場區隔,也可以利用現代的網路來行銷,將好評宣傳出去。如此才能將這份傳統技藝發揚光大,走出自己的現代與成功之路。
A Sushi is one of the most famous Japanese food, which has been developed for thousands of years. It is not just a slice of raw fish on the rice with vinegar; rather, it is a delicate food that the cook shows his devotion and technique for his craftsmanship. That is why people enjoy this meal even though it is truly expensive and time-consuming to eat. As time goes on; however, some species were becoming scarce due to over-fishing or pollution of the ocean. On the other hand, it is not easy to cultivate a cook since its long-time and hardship of training. Should this historical restaurant make some changes to adapt to the environment to meet the modern management style and the customers’ need? The topic is what this study is trying to explore. After interview and analysis, it is realized that customers do care about the spirit of how to make sushi based on the ancient skill. They want to enjoy the concentration of the cook dedicating to the food. Cooks spend so much efforts in picking out the ingredients, cutting the meat into slices, arranging the order of the food, finding out what the customers requirement for food. Most of the cooks agree to use local ingredients instead of rare species used for many years. They support having local food or aquaculture’s products to replace fishes that have to be imported from Japan. Any innovation of the cooking skill, decorations, or interactions with customers will be welcomed to make this traditional industry vivid and alive. It will be even better ifthe owner of the sushi restaurant may apply internet promotion, so that more people will understand how good they are; therefore, to be able to adapt to the modern and successful way.

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壽司, 食材, 日本料理, 壽司文化, 壽司店, Sushi, Food Ingredient, Japanese Cuisine, Sushi Culture, Sushi Restaurant

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