漢字表意皮革工藝技法與創作研究

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2013

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「工藝」的發達來自於一個繁榮興盛的社會。「皮革工藝」隨著文創經濟發展 而漸趨蓬勃,成為台灣工藝中不可或缺的類項之一。但皮革工藝技藝的傳承,卻 極少以自己的文字著述與流傳。本創作研究是以「漢字表意」(Chinese Ideogram) 之觀點,以「漢字」望文生義,易於辨別的特性,初期將皮革工藝分類如:「雕」、 「染」、「縫」、「塑」、「鏤」、「印」等六種技法,經由調查研究將皮革工藝技法與 文字連結自然分類,提供皮革工藝可被建構之理論基礎。主要研究目的在於探究 皮革工藝技法分類,與進行皮革工藝作品之創作。 運用KJ研究方法,由不同領域之十二位專家小組以「漢字表意之皮革工藝設 計意象初探」為題,進行皮革工藝設計意象的KJ法操作及關鍵議題探尋。從國內 外文獻中,篩選出十二位不同風格之皮革工藝家,三十件代表作品為研究樣本來 源。研究中依據四項篩選標準為原則。KJ結果共得出:文化創意加值、東方意象 及創作形式等三大設計意象,十個皮革工藝設計關鍵項目,作為創作發想之學理 基礎。以「漢字表意」之言此意彼的隱喻和象徵概念,將人文當作一種紋飾。從 「圓」之造形蛻變,融合於圓滿概念之「方圓之間」系列。創作中混合多種技法, 以實用單品、雙品合一、合體造型等三種形式呈現。本創作研究提供皮革工藝, 可被建構之理論基礎,提升皮革工藝學習者,在學習過程中之效能,進而提高皮 革工藝推廣,與多元發展之可行性,希冀對台灣皮革工藝,學界與產業界有所貢 獻。
The progressive development of crafts is rooted in a thriving and vibrant society. As the cultural and creative economy develops in Taiwan, leathercraft has gradually flourished and become an integral part of Taiwanese crafts. However, the heritage of leathercrafts in Taiwan, has rarely been documented and widely circulated. The main purpose of this research aims at investigating leathercrafts techniques classification and create leathercraft innovative works. From the perspective of Chinese Ideogram, this innovation research has classified leathercraft techniques into “carving”, “dying”, “sewing”, “modeling”, “engraving”, and “printing”, providing a theoretical foundation for future development of leathercrafts. Based on the topic of “Chinese Ideogram and Leathercraft Design Images Research” and through the utilization of KJ research methods, expert groups from 12 different disciplines carried out in-depth discussions on the operation of KJ methods on leathercraft design images and explored the relevant key issues extensively. 30 classical works of 12 different styles of leathercraft designers from both local and foreign literature were selected via 4 criteria as research samples. KJ results generated 3 primary design images, namely, value-added cultural innovation, oriental images, and creative forms as well as 10 key leathercraft design items as the theoretical foundation for innovative creation. Using human cultures as ornamentation, the six techniques are applied through Chinese character metaphors and symbolic concepts. And from the use of “circular” shape transformations, to fashion a series of creative works based on the “interaction between squares and circles”. The creative process mixes the application of the various techniques, and presents innovative works in 3 different forms- as a single object, dual objects or a combination of many objects. This research provides leathercraft with a theoretical foundation that can be further built upon, enhances the efficiency of learners in the learning process, and improves the promotion and the possibility of diversified development of leathercraft. With the hope that at the same time will contribute to the development of leathercraft in Taiwan, in academia and the industry at large.

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漢字表意, 皮革工藝, 皮革工藝技法, Chinese Ideogram, Leathercraft, Leathercraft Techniques

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