地話 (terroir)意涵之轉變:以法國勃艮第葡萄酒區為例

Abstract

「地話」一詞涵義從「葡萄樹生長的自然環境」，擴展為「具有領域權的特定空間」，人們長期與這塊區域互動下，產生了認同和共同記憶，建構出葡萄栽種區的地方意象。本文以法國勃艮第葡萄酒區為個案，探究造成地話意涵轉變的原因，結果顯示，在全球化浪潮下，勃艮第人們藉由「創制 (invention)」聖文生節和印有遼闊葡萄園的酒標，將當地特有的地方意象－葡萄酒－作為資本主義市場的籌碼，勃艮第地方透過節慶和符號等策略，做為地方再現的方式。其次，經由法國國家層級制定「法定產區制 (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, AOC)」政策，這個政策不但成為日後歐洲共同體的葡萄酒規章依據，也是歐美貿易協定的談判基礎。此舉既賦予「地話」法律依據，同時讓葡萄酒間的差異根植於土地，這種「壟斷地租」的特性，成為葡萄酒特殊且無法複製的文化宣稱。

At first, “terroir” means “the natural environment which vine was grown”. Latter, the meaning of “terroir” is extended to a specific space which has the notion of territoriality. Over a long time inhabitants interact with the space, since then it gives rise to identity and collective memory to them. This makes grape growing area become place image. In this paper, the French wine region of Burgundy is a case study to discuss transformation of terroir. The result shows that people represent the place Burgundy by inventing tradition of Saint Vincent Tournante and wine label of an expansive view of vineyards. Besides, terroir emphasises the differences between the wine rooted in soil. French government develops policy of Appellation d'Origine Controlee which gives terroir a legal basis . From now on, AOC becomes not only the basis of the wine regulations in European Community, but also the agreement between USA and EU on trade in wine. In this way, “Burgundy” is not only the name of place in France, but also a label which distincts wine planted in Burgundy from other places. When people think of “Burgundy”, it means “wine region”. Monopoly rent makes terroir a cultural claim which can not be replicated.