從海蟹到萬里蟹：品質與資源治理的再領域化

Abstract

「萬里蟹」為新北市政府於2012年推出的地方品牌，陸續10年來已經造成大量觀光客每到時節，便前往新北市萬里區進行海蟹的消費，到萬里吃萬里蟹蔚為風潮。與農產品不同的是，漁產品並非來自特定的陸域行政區，不適用陸域觀點下的地理標示系統（GI）、臺灣地方特色產業政策來理解萬里蟹集中於萬里區消費的發展過程。因此本文從海蟹的物性出發，以拼裝理論（assemblage theory）將「萬里蟹」作為不可分割討論的拼裝體，剖析在海蟹跨時空尺度的社會生命史中，異質行動者加入與移出拼裝體的過程所引發的去領域化與再領域化的效應，進一步生產出拼裝體流動的地方性，也影響了萬里蟹在道地性上的論述。本研究的發現如下：（1）拼裝體中的海蟹零售制移出，又新鮮海蟹大量集中於萬里區的餐飲業，消費者趨向到萬里區吃螃蟹，形成地方性的品質治理與消費行為的壟斷租；（2）拼裝體生產的地方性海洋倫理對海蟹的資源治理，使萬里蟹成為替代性生態認證系統。由上述兩點，海蟹與陸域空間關係的交纏形塑出了萬里蟹的道地性，為一社會工程下的產物。"Wanli Crab" is a local brand launched by the New Taipei City government in 2012, and over the past 10 years, it has led to a significant influx of tourists who, during the season, travel to the Wanli District of New Taipei City to consume the crabs. Dining on Wanli Crab in Wanli District has become a trend. Unlike agricultural products, fisheries products do not originate from specific administrastive districts, and therefore, the development of Wanli Crab's concentrated consumption in the Wanli District cannot be understood using the perspective of the Geographic Indication (GI) system or Taiwan's One Town One Product(OTOP) policies. Hence, this paper, starting from the physical properties of crabs, employs the assemblage theory to treat "Wanli Crab" as an inseparable assemblage for discussion. Through the social life history of crabs, it analyzes the effects of de-territorialization and re-territorialization induced by the process of heterogeneous actors joining and leaving the Wanli Crab assemblage, which further produces the mobility of “place”, influencing the discourse on the authenticity of Wanli Crab. The findings of this study are as follows: (1) The leaving of the crab retailers from the assemblage and the concentration of fresh crabs in Wanli District's restaurants have led consumers to eating crabs in the Wanli District, creating the localized quality governance and a monopoly rent from consumption behavior. (2) The assemblage-invoking localized marine ethics governs the crabs resources, making Wanli Crab an alternative ecological certification system. From these two points, the intertwining relationship between crabs and terrestrial space shapes the authenticity of Wanli Crab, emerging as a product of social engineering.