地方味：從區域地理到風土地話的宜蘭小吃

Abstract

在台灣的現代飲食生活裡，小吃成為人們重要的日常。有賴於通訊技術的躍進，隨著人們與小吃在地方之間的轉移，小吃與地方遂產生複雜的牽動與連結關係。本研究旨在探討現代地方小吃蘊含的實質意義，並採用區域地理學與風土地話的理論視野和觀點，解釋現代人與地方小吃之間的互動交流。本研究以宜蘭與台北作為主要研究區域，分別從在地人和外地人、生產者與消費者的面向，探究人們如何與宜蘭小吃建立關係。無論是在地人從日常生活面向形成的地方認同、外地人在媒體和旅遊影響下建構的地方意象，還是在混雜的都市中展現地方性的小吃，人們因地點、身份與角色各異，對宜蘭小吃擁有不同的感受與行動，也才構成地方小吃的豐富意涵。本研究藉由釐清地方小吃涵蓋的現代意義，了解人們是如何以更多樣化的方式去理解與詮釋地方的本質。如今身處全球化下快速更迭的世代裡，期盼人們能夠放慢腳步、深刻體會小吃富含的真實生命力，品味平凡小吃展現的不凡價值。In modern dietary life in Taiwan, street foods have become an important part of daily life. Thanks to advances in communication technology, as people and street foods move between places, a complex relationship and connection between street foods and places have emerged. This study aims to explore the substantial meaning contained in modern local street foods and uses the theoretical perspectives of regional geography and Terroir to explain the interaction and exchange between modern people and local street foods. The study focuses on Yilan and Taipei as the main research areas, examining how locals and outsiders, producers, and consumers establish relationships with Yilan street foods. Whether it is the place identity formed by locals from the perspective of daily life, the place image constructed by outsiders under the influence of media and tourism, or the display of locality through street foods in a mixed urban environment, people's different locations, identities, and roles lead to diverse perceptions and actions towards Yilan street foods, contributing to the rich connotations of local street foods. By clarifying the modern significance encompassed by local street foods, this study aims to understand how people interpret and understand the essence of places in more diverse ways. In today's rapidly changing globalized era, it is hoped that people can slow down and deeply appreciate the true vitality contained in streetfoods, savoring the extraordinary value exhibited by ordinary street foods.