台灣男性時尚雜誌內容產製之研究，以《COOL流行酷報》為例
Abstract
近年來，台灣雜誌市場有了極大的變化，其中男性流行時尚雜誌是一個最受到矚目的新興傳播媒介，其種類、銷售量都持續不斷的成長，而傳播媒介是形塑性別印象的重要社會體制，故本研究欲探知男性流行時尚雜誌封面所再現的男性形象為何？另外，由於過去有關的男性雜誌研究，大多以內容訊息或符號學為主，卻少有從雜誌編輯與產製的架構進行分析，因此本研究希望分析台灣男性流行時尚雜誌在產製過程中受到各個階層的影響為何？而編輯人員如何塑造男性形象？以及如何回應組織政策與外在環境的壓力？
本研究運用內容分析法，挑選台灣最具代表性的本土男性流行雜誌《COOL流行酷報》為樣本，另外針對四種台灣男性流行時尚雜誌的編輯、主管人員進行深度訪談，以瞭解台灣男性流行時尚雜誌編輯產製的情形。研究結果發現，男性流行時尚雜誌封面所出現的男性，多為年齡介於18～35歲台港地區當紅的偶像，外貌形象以時髦、俊俏為主要類型，衣著打扮則偏向街頭休閒，而封面的編排特色則意圖以鮮艷繽紛的色彩、醒目的標題，吸引讀者目光、刺激銷量。此外，根據訪談結果，雖然雜誌編輯有獨到的服飾品味，但是雜誌的產製是以團體企劃為主，加上決策權掌握在最高主管手裡，因此編輯必須製作出符合組織觀點與風格的內容，而廣告對於雜誌產製的影響並不亞於組織規範與主管決策，廣告主可藉由資金力量，靠著廣告版面與商品置入，影響雜誌的編排形式以及內容呈現，進而也左右了讀者的喜好與銷售量。綜合這些研究結果，期望可以勾勒出台灣男性時尚雜誌所再現的男性形象面貌，豐富本土的雜誌產製與男性研究資源，並在男性時尚日趨為人們所注重的時代提供給有心人從不同的觀點去深入瞭解男性時尚的本質，這或許是能藉以改變本國男性形象的契機。
In recent years, Taiwan's magazine market has great changes, of which men’s fashion magazines are one kind of the new media that drew attention, and the types, sales of men’s fashion magazines are continuing to grow, and the media is an important social structure which shape gender impression. Therefore, this study wishes to explore men’s fashion magazine cover image of the male reproduction. In addition, most of the men’s study in the past almost used content of messages or semiology, but the edit production or with an analysis of the structure is few, so this study hope to analysis what’s the effect from all class in the production process of Taiwan's men’s fashion magazine? And how editors shape the image of men? And how to respond the organizational policy, and the pressure from external environment? In this study, I use content analysis, and select "COOL", which is one of the most representative men fashion magazines in Taiwan for sample, and take in-depth interview the other four men’s fashion magazines editors or executives to understand the production of men’s fashion magazines in Taiwan. The results show that the cover character of men’s fashion magazines mostly between the ages of 18 to 35-year-old areas, and most of them are Taiwan and Hong Kong pop idol, the image of a fashionable appearance are handsome, and the main type of dress are casual, street style, and the characteristics of the cover are intended to use bright colors, eye-catching headline to attract readers attention and stimulate sales. In addition, according to interviews, although the magazine editors have a unique taste of clothing, but the magazine's production is team job, and the right of policy decision is belong to the chief, the editor must produce content that in line with the organizational point of view, and the impact of magazine production from the Ad is no less than the decision-making organizations, advertisers can use money power to buy ad layout and placement of goods, which impact the way to show style and content of magazines, and also impact the reader's preferences and sales. The combination of these studies hopes can be outlined the face of male image that reproduced by men’s fashion magazines, enrich research resources of local magazines production and men’s study, and making the readers to learn more about the nature of the magazine which they usually read in a difrrent way.
In recent years, Taiwan's magazine market has great changes, of which men’s fashion magazines are one kind of the new media that drew attention, and the types, sales of men’s fashion magazines are continuing to grow, and the media is an important social structure which shape gender impression. Therefore, this study wishes to explore men’s fashion magazine cover image of the male reproduction. In addition, most of the men’s study in the past almost used content of messages or semiology, but the edit production or with an analysis of the structure is few, so this study hope to analysis what’s the effect from all class in the production process of Taiwan's men’s fashion magazine? And how editors shape the image of men? And how to respond the organizational policy, and the pressure from external environment? In this study, I use content analysis, and select "COOL", which is one of the most representative men fashion magazines in Taiwan for sample, and take in-depth interview the other four men’s fashion magazines editors or executives to understand the production of men’s fashion magazines in Taiwan. The results show that the cover character of men’s fashion magazines mostly between the ages of 18 to 35-year-old areas, and most of them are Taiwan and Hong Kong pop idol, the image of a fashionable appearance are handsome, and the main type of dress are casual, street style, and the characteristics of the cover are intended to use bright colors, eye-catching headline to attract readers attention and stimulate sales. In addition, according to interviews, although the magazine editors have a unique taste of clothing, but the magazine's production is team job, and the right of policy decision is belong to the chief, the editor must produce content that in line with the organizational point of view, and the impact of magazine production from the Ad is no less than the decision-making organizations, advertisers can use money power to buy ad layout and placement of goods, which impact the way to show style and content of magazines, and also impact the reader's preferences and sales. The combination of these studies hopes can be outlined the face of male image that reproduced by men’s fashion magazines, enrich research resources of local magazines production and men’s study, and making the readers to learn more about the nature of the magazine which they usually read in a difrrent way.
Description
Keywords
男性時尚雜誌, 男性形象, 型男, 內容產製, 《COOL 流行酷報》, men’s fashion magazine, male image, Metrosexual, content Production, “COOL”