外食、間餐與小吃：台灣當代飲食生活的時空變遷

Abstract

近30-40年以來，台灣的飲食生活發生了重大的轉變。在空間上，從家庭煮食逐漸移轉至在外飲食；時間上，由規律的一日三餐漸漸變成不固定的間餐；內容上，則是從以米飯為主的合菜式餐點轉而變成偏好簡單方便的小吃。因此本研究主要探討的課題是：千禧年前後台灣飲食生活的時空變遷。以時空相關理論與觀點切入，探討當代飲食發展趨勢—外食、間餐與小吃。在空間面向的分析中，使用Lefebvre的「空間生產」以及Giddens「行動-結構化歷程理論」中的區域化模式來探討外食空間的生產與建構；在時間面向的分析中，則是採用Hägerstrand的「時間地理學」與Lefebvre的「節奏分析」來探討不同時間維度、不同節奏韻律的飲食活動，從而描繪出當代飲食活動的多重樣貌。由於現今台灣的都市化程度極高，因此研究區設定在台北都會區中，以街頭觀察與個別訪談的方式進行經驗資料的蒐集。研究結果發現：街道上的餐飲店家呈現「大街聚集、小巷散布」的空間分布特色，尤其是高度聚集於主要幹道的重要節點附近；而次要道路中，若生活機能多元，將促使街道食堂聚集，並成為供應日常飲食的巷口食堂、地方飲食圈，甚至是進一步成為兼具日常飲食與觀光美食供應的飲食商圈。另外，餐飲店家為符應現代都市外食者的飲食需求，呈現二十四小時不間斷的接力供應的景象。雖然受到制度時間的限制，多數的外食者仍維持傳統午、晚餐的飲食作息，但是也逐漸出現許多新的飲食作息，例如：宵夜、下午茶、早午餐……等間餐的飲食模式。而在飲食生活的時空變遷之下，小吃逐漸成為外食的正餐；象徵休閒的飲品與甜食也越來越重要；新奇的異國料理備受喜愛；追求效率的現代步調，也將外食的內用逐漸轉變為外帶、外送；並且出現了集合當代飲食趨勢的食物綠洲—便利商店。由上述發現可以得知：台灣當代的飲食生活的變遷同時受到社會飲食空間生產與個人飲食活動再生產的影響，兩者之間相互建構的動態歷程則體現在「地方飲食生活圈」的形成之上。Over the past 30 to 40 years, the foodways of Taiwan have undergone major changes: As to space, it has gradually shifted from cooking at home to eating out; as to time, it has progressively changed from regular three meals a day to irregular non-square meals; as to food content, it has shifted from rice-based mixed dishes to a preference for simple and convenient street food. This study primarily discusses the time-space changes in Taiwan’s foodways before and after the millennium. Using theories and perspectives related to space and time, this study investigates contemporary dietary trends—eating out, non-square meals, and street food. In the space-oriented analysis, Lefebvre's "The production of space" and the regionalization model in Giddens' "Structuration theory" are used to examine the production and construction of spaces of eating out. In the time-oriented analysis, Hägerstrand's "Time-geography" and Lefebvre's "Rhythmanalysis" are employed to explore dietary activities across different time dimensions and rhythms, thereby depicting the multifaceted nature of contemporary dietary activities. Given the high degree of urbanization in Taiwan nowadays, this studyfocuses on the Taipei metropolitan area, and the empirical data were collected through street observations and individual interviews. The research results show that the diners on the streets show the spatial distribution characteristics of “aggregated on the streets and scattered in alleys”, with significant clusters near key nodes of major thoroughfares. In secondary roads, diverse functional amenities encourage the clustering of street eateries, forming alley diners, living and dining circle, and even dining business districts that cater to both daily dining and culinary tourism. Additionally, to meet the dietary needs of modern urban diners, dining establishments operate on a 24-hour relay system. Despite the constraints of institutional time, most diners still maintain traditional meal times for lunch and dinner, but new dining schedules are emerging, such as late-night snacks, afternoon tea, and brunch, the non-square meals. Amid these foodways of time-space changes, street food has increasingly become a regular meal option; leisure beverages and sweets are gaining importance; novel and exotic cuisines are highly favored; and the efficiency-driven modern pace is shifting dining from dine-in to takeout and delivery. Moreover, convenience stores have emerged as food oases embodying contemporary dietary trends. From these findings, it is evident that the changes in Taiwan’s contemporary foodways are influenced by the interplay between the social production of dining spaces and the reproduction of individual dietary activities. This dynamic interplay is reflected in the formation of"local eating life areas."