二林契作農村的轉變--以葡萄、紅龍果為例
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2015
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彰化縣二林鎮為全台農村酒莊密度最高的鄉鎮,在其葡萄酒產業的發展過程中,藉由與「臺灣省菸酒公賣局」進行葡萄契作,累積種植技術並成為台灣種植釀酒葡萄的主要產地。在專賣制度廢除後,政府開放民間製酒並推行農村酒莊,二林因其契作歷史背景,當地農會積極推行葡萄酒產業,發展之初前景看好,甚至欲將二林打造為台灣葡萄酒鄉。然而榮景盛行不久,紅龍果作物便取代了葡萄酒產業的發展,成為二林最主要果樹作物。故本研究借用地話(Terroir)的概念來作為分析的觀點,企圖瞭解二林契作農村為何經歷各種作物轉種而常有變遷,無法成為一個具有強烈土地依附的在地認同進而形成穩定的農村景觀。
研究發現造成二林契作農村的改變除了來自外在政策直接影響農村地景的劇烈改變外。透過地話概念的分析,發現,二林農民無論對葡萄酒產業或紅龍果的意識主要建立在對「人的認同」及對無地性的「物認同」,而非對作物所依附的土地產生認同後進而認同由此地所生產的作物,尤其在失去契作保障利潤下,農民一旦面對高經濟作物的出現,更容易捨棄當下的作物,進而改變農村地景,不易形成穩定恆久持續的農村。
Because of the history of contract farming of Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Monopoly Bureau, Erlin cumulates planting techniques and becomes the main producing place of planting wine grapes in Taiwan. After the monopolization system was repealed, our government opened up privatization of liquor. Because of the contract farming, local farmers' association promotes actively this wine industry. However, the good circumstances don't last long. Wine industry was replaced by pitaya which becomes the main fruit in Erlin. In the view of “Terroir”, the research explores the reason for Erlin couldn't maintain the landscape of rural areas with strong land dependence and the local identity. According to the result, the change of Erlin’s contract farming is mainly derived from the policy which directly influences the rural landscape. Through the analysis of terroir , it discovers Erlin farmers’ awareness of the wine industry or the pitaya is mainly built on the identification of people and subject of non-place, rather than dependence on the fruiter which is produced by the land that is been identity. Once the farmers lose profit guarantee on contract farming system, they are more likely to abandon current fruiter to replant higher lucrative fruiter and further to change rural landscape. It's hard to stabilize the lasting rural landscape.
Because of the history of contract farming of Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Monopoly Bureau, Erlin cumulates planting techniques and becomes the main producing place of planting wine grapes in Taiwan. After the monopolization system was repealed, our government opened up privatization of liquor. Because of the contract farming, local farmers' association promotes actively this wine industry. However, the good circumstances don't last long. Wine industry was replaced by pitaya which becomes the main fruit in Erlin. In the view of “Terroir”, the research explores the reason for Erlin couldn't maintain the landscape of rural areas with strong land dependence and the local identity. According to the result, the change of Erlin’s contract farming is mainly derived from the policy which directly influences the rural landscape. Through the analysis of terroir , it discovers Erlin farmers’ awareness of the wine industry or the pitaya is mainly built on the identification of people and subject of non-place, rather than dependence on the fruiter which is produced by the land that is been identity. Once the farmers lose profit guarantee on contract farming system, they are more likely to abandon current fruiter to replant higher lucrative fruiter and further to change rural landscape. It's hard to stabilize the lasting rural landscape.
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二林, 葡萄酒, 紅龍果, 地話, 壟斷地租, Erlin, Wine, Pitaya, Terroir, Monopoly rent