Terroir意涵之探討

Abstract

「Terroir」一詞為法語的專屬用詞，在轉換為其它語言時，較難找到適當相對應概念的字詞。原先被應用於一地對農業的生產環境，特別是探討法國葡萄酒生產之地，隨後更廣泛被用於界定法國各項AOC（L’appellation d’origine contrôlée）的農食品，由此可知Terroir 在農業生產上的重要性及壟斷性。然而，Terroir 的意涵在時間的推演下逐漸轉變及擴大（特別是在法國）。Terroir不僅用於研究農產（食）品的生產環境，在全球飲食形態的轉變下，Terroir 成為食品安全的代名詞，並強烈的與在地連結，進一步成為地方認同的符號。因此此文藉由不同時期Terroir 的各項定義及研究中，分析其在農業、飲食地理研究中的角色，並對其定義和意涵做進一步了解和詮釋，期盼對相關研究提供另一思考及研究取徑。而在分析法文及英文有關Terroir 的相關研究後，本研究發現Terroir 的意涵的多元性，而現今各種的中文譯名均只能指涉某些面向，因此本研究建議Terroir 的中文譯名採用「地話」此一音譯的方式，使在應用上可以符合其複雜性。“Terroir” is a specialized in French. When translated in other languages, it’s difficult to find appropriate words with the same meaning. “Terroir” is used in discussing the environment of agriculture in the beginning, especially in discussing the production of French wine. The concept of “terroir” is utilized largely in confirming French certification “L’appellation d’origine contrôlée” of their agricultural products. The importance and the monopoly of “terroir” in the production agricultural are obvious. Nevertheless, the meaning of “terroir” changes and enlarges by time (particularly in France). “Terroir” is not simply used in considering the conditions of the environment in production. Because of the change of the eating style, “terroir” becomes the representation of safety food, and it changes into the symbol of self-identity. As a result, this article analyzes its role in the studies of agriculture and alimentation by its definitions and relevant studies, and redefining its meaning. Hopefully, this research would give another thinking and approach in relevant studies. After analyzing related researches of “terroir” in French and English, the authors learned that the definition and the application of “terroir” are diverse. Because of that, we propose a new Chinese translation of “terroir” for its relativelycomplexity.