苦瓜之多元保健功能研究--苦瓜產品的皮膚保健功效(1/2)
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Date
2010-07-01
Authors
蔡帛蓉
蔡宗憲TSAI PO JUNG
Tsung-HsienTsai
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Abstract
黑色素(melanin)可保護皮膚免於紫外線傷害，其生成主要受到酪胺酸?(tyrosinase)的調控，但過多黑色素生成會造成色素沉澱導致皮膚上形成色素斑塊，許多因素會促進黑色素生成，包括：荷爾蒙、壓力和紫外線照射...等。UV 照射引發皮膚細胞的DNA 傷害(photodamage)、生成過氧化物(例如hydrogen peroxide)、引發肝斑(melasma)，同時也會提高 matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)表現，降低 type I procollagen 含量造成皮膚老化(photoaging)。苦瓜(Momordica charantia)具有降血糖、抗菌、抗病毒、抗腫瘤、抗胃潰瘍、抗瘧、抗發炎和抗氧化等活性。在東南亞，苦瓜的葉子被用來煮汁治療皮膚病，並製成美容保養產品。先前我們研究發現山苦瓜(Momordica charantia Linn. var. abbreviata Ser.)萃取物具有抗發炎、抗氧化和抗UV誘發MMP表現，但是對於抑制黑色素生成的效用較不明確，所以我們繼續建立-MSH-stimulated B16-F10 melanocytes的細胞模式，觀察山苦瓜萃取物對於tyrosinase活性和黑色素生成的影響。實驗結果發現山苦瓜萃取物：(A) 抗氧化能力評估：山苦瓜葉子甲醇萃取物具有良好清除DPPH, NO, superoxide, and hydroxyl radical自由基的能力。(B) 對於tyrosinase活性的抑制作用：山苦瓜葉子甲醇萃取物除了野生品系(IL)之外，其它萃取物樣品於濃度50~200 μg/mL時皆能顯著抑制tyrosinase activity，其中又以花蓮1號(HL-1)的抑制能力最強。山苦瓜果實部分無論乙醇和EA萃取物皆能顯著的抑制tyrosinase活性。(C) 對於黑色素生成的抑制作用：山苦瓜葉子甲醇萃取物除了野生品系(IL-L； #9)於濃度50 μg/mL沒有顯著抑制黑色素生成的效果之外，其他萃取物於濃度50~200 μg/mL時皆能顯著的抑制黑色素生成，抑制效果最優的是花蓮1號(HL-1)與花蓮2號(HL-2)。山苦瓜果實的乙醇萃取物可降低 11.7~29.3% melanin含量，山苦瓜果實的EA萃取物可降低 15.3~31.9% melanin含量。本實驗結果顯示花蓮1號的葉子甲醇萃取物及果實EA萃取物抑制黑色素生成的效果最佳。(D) 招募29名受試者進行人體試驗，結果發現山苦瓜萃取物不會產生皮膚過敏或不適等症狀，具良好的外用安全性。而且塗抹含山苦瓜萃物乳霜於第8週、第12週均顯著改善斑點與細紋。 綜合我們執行「苦瓜之多元保健功能研究－苦瓜產品的皮膚保健功效(1/2)和(2/2)研究的細胞實驗結果，花蓮1號萃取物於濃度200μg/ml下具有抑制黑色素生成(美白效用)和抗光老化的能力，於人體實驗也觀察到山苦瓜萃取具有斑點與細紋的功效。故本研究已初步證實山苦瓜萃取物的皮膚保健功效。
Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanogenesis. Melanin is essential for protecting human skin against radiation, but the accumulation of abnormal melanin induces pigmentation disorders. UV radiation is responsible as a causative factor for various skin lesions including photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Photoaging is characterized by severe wrinkling and pigmentary changes. In addition, UV induced MMP-1and then caused collagen breakdown and induced inflammatory responses. Bitter melon (Momordica charantia) extracts exerted hypoglycemic, anti-diabetic, antiviral, antitumor, antiulcer, anti-leukemic, antibacterial, anti-mutagenic, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. In Asia, the infusion of stems and leaves of bitter melon has been proposed as an agent for skin care. In this study, we investigated the anti-melanogenic and anti-photoaging properties of wild bitter melons (WBM； Momordica charantia Linn. var. abbreviata Ser.). Results showed that methanolic (MeOH) extracts of WBM leaves showed significant DPPH free radical, superoxide, nitric oxide and hydroxyl radical scavenging activity. Ethyl acetate (EA) and ethanolic (EtOH) extracts of fruits, MeOH extracts of leaves and viny juice of WBM significantly inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity. EA fruit extracts and MeOH leaf extracts of WBM significantly suppressed tyrosinase activity and decreased melanin levels in α-MSH-stimulated B16-F10 melanocytes. Twenty-nine subjects were enrolled in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative study. HL-1 extracts was found to be topical safe and well tolerated. A gradual and time-related improvement in pigmentary abnormality and wrinkle was shown under the treatment with HL-1 extracts. HL-1 extracts significantly reduced spot and wrinkle after 8-wk and 12-wk treatment. Our study herein demonstrated the skin care potential of wild bitter melon.
Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanogenesis. Melanin is essential for protecting human skin against radiation, but the accumulation of abnormal melanin induces pigmentation disorders. UV radiation is responsible as a causative factor for various skin lesions including photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Photoaging is characterized by severe wrinkling and pigmentary changes. In addition, UV induced MMP-1and then caused collagen breakdown and induced inflammatory responses. Bitter melon (Momordica charantia) extracts exerted hypoglycemic, anti-diabetic, antiviral, antitumor, antiulcer, anti-leukemic, antibacterial, anti-mutagenic, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. In Asia, the infusion of stems and leaves of bitter melon has been proposed as an agent for skin care. In this study, we investigated the anti-melanogenic and anti-photoaging properties of wild bitter melons (WBM； Momordica charantia Linn. var. abbreviata Ser.). Results showed that methanolic (MeOH) extracts of WBM leaves showed significant DPPH free radical, superoxide, nitric oxide and hydroxyl radical scavenging activity. Ethyl acetate (EA) and ethanolic (EtOH) extracts of fruits, MeOH extracts of leaves and viny juice of WBM significantly inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity. EA fruit extracts and MeOH leaf extracts of WBM significantly suppressed tyrosinase activity and decreased melanin levels in α-MSH-stimulated B16-F10 melanocytes. Twenty-nine subjects were enrolled in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative study. HL-1 extracts was found to be topical safe and well tolerated. A gradual and time-related improvement in pigmentary abnormality and wrinkle was shown under the treatment with HL-1 extracts. HL-1 extracts significantly reduced spot and wrinkle after 8-wk and 12-wk treatment. Our study herein demonstrated the skin care potential of wild bitter melon.