廖偉民Liao, Wei-Ming江芳瑜Chiang, Fang-Yu2022-06-082021-07-272022-06-082021https://etds.lib.ntnu.edu.tw/thesis/detail/3d7b12c53fe669c7c37c0f7f988fea67/http://rportal.lib.ntnu.edu.tw/handle/20.500.12235/118386「食、衣、住、行、育、樂」為民生六大需求，其中「衣」排序前列，可見服飾在人類生活中佔有不可或缺的地位，然而服飾不僅具有禦寒及保護身體的作用，更與藝術美學、文化象徵及時代思潮緊密相連；又近年環境保護及養生哲學意識高漲，在不破壞自然環境、不危害人體健康的前提下，衣飾布料採用天然染料印染，絕對是最好的方法。據此，本文旨透過最天然傳統的藍染工藝技術與服裝設計相互結合，將布面上漸層的色彩及絢麗的臺灣特有種植物圖案嵌入女裝服飾中。本文首先採用「文獻分析法」蒐集臺灣特有種植物，其次，利用「深度訪談法」與三位具有藍染工藝技術之專家進行訪談，訪談內容主要聚焦於根據臺灣特有種植物之形體、狀態、樣貌及紋路等特徵，建議運用何種技法呈現，進而提出本文創作所能運用之印染技法，合適的技法能夠使染印的圖紋更具有生命力及穿透力，透過與專家訪談後得出十種植物藍染紋樣與對應之技法運用，臺灣扁柏毬果呈球形，毬果上具特殊紋路，而臺灣荖藤之果呈密集的圓球形狀，故兩者使用綁染技法；南仁山天南星葉片輪廓明顯具有葉紋，瓜葉馬兜鈴圖形輪廓似掌狀，特殊且清晰，故兩者使用縫染技法；鵝鑾鼻燈籠草由四片花瓣組成，而臺灣藜蘆的花具有六枚花瓣，利用布料可摺疊的特性夾出對稱的圖案，故兩者使用夾染技法；臺灣百合及阿里山根節蘭花形姿態生動且線條輪廓較為複雜，故兩者使用型染技法；烏來杜鵑花形姿態生動呈不規則狀，而臺北堇菜具似血管紋路的紫色縱紋，故兩者使用蠟染技法。最後，再結合服裝設計，服飾的創作理念是以一種復古翻新的現代簡約設計回溯當時藍染產業衰退的日治時期，透過打樣版型、縫製作業，創作出兼具臺灣文化傳統性、特有種植物意象性及現代簡約感的女裝服飾，並結合日治時期所建造的建築物作為拍攝背景，以推廣復甦藍染產業昔日的風華歷史。"Food, clothing, accommodation, transportation, education, and recreation" are the six major needs of people's livelihood, among which "clothing" ranks the second, indicating its indispensable position in people’s life. Clothing not only protects our body from the cold, but is also closely related to artistic aesthetics, cultural symbols and contemporary trends. In recent years, the awareness of environmental protection and health care has increased, so on the premise of not damaging the naturalenvironment and people’s health, using natural dyes for printing and dyeing clothes and fabrics is definitely the best method. Therefore, the purpose of this article aims to combine the most natural and traditional indigo dyeing skill with fashion design, and to apply the gradational colors and the gorgeous patterns of Taiwan endemic plants on the fabric into ladies wear. First, this article uses the"Document Analysis" to collect Taiwan endemic plants, then interviews three indigo dyeing experts through “In-depth Interview.” The interview mainly focuses on the experts’ proposed techniques for presentation in terms of the characteristics of the shape, state, appearance and pattern of Taiwan endemic plants, and then concludes the appropriate printing and dyeing techniques that can be used in the creation to bestow more vitality and penetration on the printing and dyeing patterns. After the interview, ten kinds of plant patterns for indigo dyeing and corresponding techniques are concluded. Taiwan Cypress pine cone is spherical with special veined pattern, and the fruit of Piper Taiwanese is a dense-shaped sphere, thus they both use tie-dyed technique. The pattern of Arisaema nanjenense leaves is obvious, and the outline of Aristolochia cucurbitifolia leaves is palm-like, so these two use sew-dyed technique. The flower of Kalanchoe garambiensis Kudo has four petals while Veratrum formosanum Loes has six petals, thus they could use clip-dyed technique to create symmetrical patterns due to the foldable characteristic of the fabric. The flower of Taiwan Lily and Calanthe arisanensis Hayata have lively figure and complex outline, so they use shape-dyed technique. The flower of Rhododendron kanehirae is vivid and irregular while Viola nagasawae has purple vertical lines that resemble blood vessel, so these two use batik-dyed technique. Last, use the forementioned techniques in the fashion design. The concept is based on a retro-renovated modern minimalist design which recalls the Japanese colonial period when the indigo dyeing was declining to serve as the time background, and create ladies wear articulating traditional Taiwanese culture, the image of Taiwan endemic plants and modern simplicity through proof-making and sewing. Then shoot with the architecture built during Japanese colonial period to reproduce the glorious history of indigo dyeing industry at that time.藍染臺灣特有種植物服裝設計Indigo dyeingTaiwan endemic plantsfashion design作品連同書面報告（藝術類）