茶葉地理與再商品化:坪林茶的農業生產與社會生產

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2012/08-2013/07

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台灣早期的茶葉產區在北部丘陵,坪林為主要的茶葉產區。坪林長期生產包種茶,可以 說與包種茶是同義詞。坪林茶區經過長時期的開發,已形成一個有傳統與制度的產區,其茶 種、生產方式與產銷制度經過長時間的發展而有一定的制度、生產體系或生產鏈。然而,隨 著社會文化的轉變,坪林地區開始有著茶葉轉型多元現象,開始生產紅茶與綠茶,其生產的 方式也由福特式生產逐漸轉向後生產主義式。坪林茶業發展過程中近期的變化可以回應至生 產鏈的理論觀點去探討生產鏈理論指出的生產投入、產出的過程,但坪林茶產業的現況更可 以補充生產鏈理論所未能詳察之社會生產的部分。 本研究擬從坪林地區茶產業的商品鏈過程,發掘坪林地區茶產業轉型之現況,從地理學 的角度中,剖析坪林再商品化過程中的地方鑲嵌,理解茶的品質論述如何被塑造。此外,本 研究藉由商品化概念的架構去探究坪林在生產包種茶的同時,如何發展地方多元化的商品而 形成紅、綠茶再商品化。最後,本研究也同時以坪林茶產業的商品化過程、補充對替代農糧 網路與品質治理等概念之討論。本研究透過此個案的理解,提供商品化理論與商品鏈理論的 對話與學術上的貢獻。
Ping‐ling is one of the main production sites of tea in Taiwan, among its counterparts in hilly areas in northern Taiwan. Owing to its long tradition of tea plantation, Ping‐ling has become a synonym to paochung tea. After long period of development, Ping‐ling has become a traditional and institutionalized paochung tea plantation area with the tea species, ways of growing, marketing and commodity chains of its own. However, as the transition of the society and culture happened, tea farmers have produced green tea and black tea hereafter, from a fordist to a post‐productivist manner. The Ping‐ling case is just a case in point referring to the input‐output structure of the commodity chain theory. Furthermore it is capable of supplementing the social production part of the production process, which the commodity chain theory unable to deal with. The study would take the viewpoints of the commodity chain theory to explore how the tea industry developed, the embeddedness in the recommoditization of tea and how the new discourses of quality of tea are created in Ping‐ling. In addition, the study aims to comprehend how the new products, the green and black tea, recommoditize and form alternative agrofood networks , changing the local identity in Ping‐ling as a result. Hopefully, the study would make contribution to theories such as commodity chain and alternative agrofood networks by providing experiences of tea industry development in Ping‐ling.

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