透過韓國感知亞洲: 流行服飾與音樂創作中女孩主體的跨在地生產
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Date
2011/08-2012/07
Authors
蔡如音
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Abstract
近年來，韓國流行服飾成了台灣年輕女性與上班族的每日穿著與消費選擇。無論是實體或是網路商店，韓國流行服飾皆是透過定期前往東亞各服飾批發地（首爾、東京、大阪、香港、廣州、虎門、曼谷）而流進台灣市場。本研究的目的在於解釋「韓國時尚」的跨國與跨在地生成，本研究首先將服飾採購以及店家放置在台灣的跑單幫歷史，接著，從中國製造業與南韓全球化政策兩個脈絡解釋：東大門是如何成為亞洲最大流行服飾批發地點。最核心的研究發現在於分析韓國服飾在台北師大商圈中的鑲嵌。師大商圈在2009到2011年間經歷了韓國流行服飾店暴增的現象，除了娛樂影視產業帶起的韓流解釋之外，本研究認為有必要探索成衣業者與採購者的跨國經驗，特別當台灣與韓國的政治、經濟與文化關係充滿了緊張的狀態。其實，「韓國服飾」在台灣有著相當寬廣的定義，除了韓國製、在韓國以外、仿韓系的成衣也在內。對於習慣前往東大門的台灣跨國採購人員來說，韓國流行服飾的意義有三，其一是生意上、能賺錢的考量，對於在意時尚意涵，或是經營頗具個人風格的店家來說，韓國流行服飾則挑戰了他們的既定印象與採購習慣。對於熟悉亞洲各地服飾批發競爭情形的大盤商，韓國雖獨具布料與快速時尚的優勢，但他們會更靈活的運用亞洲服飾集散地的知識，創造市場優勢。
As part of the decade-long rise of South Korean popular culture in East Asia, Korean fashion has gained currency among young women as a trendy, practical choice of everyday wear. In Taiwan, the abundant supply of clothing marketed explicitly as ’Korean fashion’ in offline and online retail markets has been facilitated by small-scale apparel buyers and shop owners who regularly visit wholesale fashion and garment markets in Seoul and other East Asian cities, primarily Tokyo, Osaka, Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Humen, and Bangkok. This paper is an attempt to explain the transnational and translocal making of Korean fashion in Taipei. The business activities of the small-scale apparel buyers and shop owners are first contextualized as part of Taiwan’s history of shuttle-trading. I then discuss how current flows of people and goods have been shaped by manufacturing and labor practices in China and the state’s globalization policies in South Korea, which have made Dongdaemun an attractive fashion sourcing destination in Asia. At the heart of the paper is an analysis of how Korean fashion became embedded in the Shida area of Taipei—a university neighborhood with an active night market that experienced an explosion in the number of clothing shops featuring Korean fashion between 2009 and 2011. While the Korean Wave and the decline of Taiwan’s apparel industry contributed to the merchants’ choice of Seoul as a sourcing destination, what does the frequent border-crossing mean given Taiwan and Korea’s ambivalent political, economic, and cultural relations? In Taiwan, Korean fashion is understood liberally to include made-in-Korea clothes, Chinese-made knock-offs, and clothes made under various authorized material and labor arrangements in and outside of South Korea. It carries three disparate connotations for retail buyers and shopkeepers in Taipei. For the start-ups, Korean fashion is simply an a la mode taste that guarantees business. For individualist fashion-loving entrepreneurs, Korean fashion challenges the aesthetic habits formed by Japanese fashion. For those toiling in the transnational reality of the apparel and fashion business, Korea is a formidable fashion and fabric sourcing stopover, but it is by no means the only wholesale destination in the region.
As part of the decade-long rise of South Korean popular culture in East Asia, Korean fashion has gained currency among young women as a trendy, practical choice of everyday wear. In Taiwan, the abundant supply of clothing marketed explicitly as ’Korean fashion’ in offline and online retail markets has been facilitated by small-scale apparel buyers and shop owners who regularly visit wholesale fashion and garment markets in Seoul and other East Asian cities, primarily Tokyo, Osaka, Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Humen, and Bangkok. This paper is an attempt to explain the transnational and translocal making of Korean fashion in Taipei. The business activities of the small-scale apparel buyers and shop owners are first contextualized as part of Taiwan’s history of shuttle-trading. I then discuss how current flows of people and goods have been shaped by manufacturing and labor practices in China and the state’s globalization policies in South Korea, which have made Dongdaemun an attractive fashion sourcing destination in Asia. At the heart of the paper is an analysis of how Korean fashion became embedded in the Shida area of Taipei—a university neighborhood with an active night market that experienced an explosion in the number of clothing shops featuring Korean fashion between 2009 and 2011. While the Korean Wave and the decline of Taiwan’s apparel industry contributed to the merchants’ choice of Seoul as a sourcing destination, what does the frequent border-crossing mean given Taiwan and Korea’s ambivalent political, economic, and cultural relations? In Taiwan, Korean fashion is understood liberally to include made-in-Korea clothes, Chinese-made knock-offs, and clothes made under various authorized material and labor arrangements in and outside of South Korea. It carries three disparate connotations for retail buyers and shopkeepers in Taipei. For the start-ups, Korean fashion is simply an a la mode taste that guarantees business. For individualist fashion-loving entrepreneurs, Korean fashion challenges the aesthetic habits formed by Japanese fashion. For those toiling in the transnational reality of the apparel and fashion business, Korea is a formidable fashion and fabric sourcing stopover, but it is by no means the only wholesale destination in the region.